I Never Liked the Caribbeana"but This Island Made Me Fall in Love With It

Published in Travel and Leisure on Sunday, August 17th 2025 at 11:54 GMT by Travel + Leisure
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From twin waterfalls and natural hot springs to serene rivers and a fun funicular, Dominica is the ultimate Caribbean adventure for those who prefer exploration over beach time.

Why Dominica Changed My Mind About the Caribbean

For years, I'd dismissed the Caribbean as a destination that didn't appeal to me. My mental image was dominated by overcrowded beaches, all-inclusive resorts packed with tourists sipping fruity cocktails, and a homogenized vibe that felt more like a commercialized escape than an authentic adventure. I'd traveled extensively elsewhere—trekking through Southeast Asia's jungles, exploring Europe's historic cities, and even venturing into South America's rugged terrains—but the Caribbean? It seemed too predictable, too focused on sunbathing and relaxation, which never quite matched my preference for immersive, nature-driven experiences. That all changed when I decided to give Dominica a chance, an island often overlooked in favor of its more famous neighbors like Jamaica or the Bahamas. What I discovered was a place that shattered my preconceptions and made me fall head over heels for the region's untamed side.

Dominica, often called the "Nature Island" of the Caribbean, stands out for its dramatic landscapes rather than pristine white-sand beaches. Unlike the flat, resort-heavy islands, Dominica is volcanic and mountainous, with lush rainforests covering much of its terrain. It's a place where adventure seekers thrive, and it's far less developed for mass tourism, which was precisely what drew me in. My journey began with a flight into Douglas-Charles Airport, followed by a winding drive through verdant hills that immediately set the tone. The island's roads twist like ribbons through dense foliage, offering glimpses of cascading waterfalls and mist-shrouded peaks. I based myself in Roseau, the capital, a colorful town with colonial architecture, bustling markets, and a laid-back atmosphere that felt worlds away from the glitzy resorts I'd imagined.

One of the first things that captivated me was Dominica's commitment to eco-tourism and preservation. The island boasts the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site that's home to boiling lakes, fumaroles, and some of the most biodiverse forests in the Caribbean. I embarked on a hike to the Boiling Lake, a challenging trek that took me through sulfur-scented valleys and across rickety suspension bridges. The path was muddy and steep, demanding sturdy boots and a sense of determination, but the reward was unparalleled: a massive, steaming crater lake bubbling like a witch's cauldron, surrounded by ethereal vapors. It was a reminder of the island's geothermal activity, fueled by its volcanic origins. Along the way, my guide pointed out endemic species like the sisserou parrot, Dominica's national bird, and shared stories of the island's resilience after Hurricane Maria in 2017, which devastated much of the landscape but spurred a remarkable recovery through community-driven reforestation efforts.

Beyond the hikes, Dominica's waters offered their own magic. I snorkeled in Champagne Reef, where geothermal vents create underwater bubbles that mimic the fizz of champagne, surrounded by vibrant coral and schools of tropical fish. It was a surreal experience, feeling the warm bursts against my skin while floating in crystal-clear seas. For a more relaxed aquatic adventure, I visited the Emerald Pool, a serene waterfall-fed grotto hidden in the rainforest, where the water's emerald hue lives up to its name. Swimming there felt like stepping into a fairy tale, with sunlight filtering through the canopy and the cool mist providing a natural spa-like refreshment.

What truly won me over, though, was the island's cultural depth and the warmth of its people. Dominica's heritage is a blend of indigenous Kalinago influences, African roots from the era of slavery, and French and British colonial legacies. I spent time in the Kalinago Territory, the only remaining indigenous reserve in the Caribbean, where I learned about traditional crafts like basket weaving and tasted cassava bread baked in earthen ovens. The locals' storytelling brought history to life, sharing tales of resistance and survival that added layers to my understanding of the island. Food played a huge role too—forget generic resort buffets. I savored fresh seafood like mountain chicken (actually a type of frog, a local delicacy), callaloo soup made with dasheen leaves, and rum punches infused with exotic spices. Dining at roadside eateries or family-run spots introduced me to the Creole flavors that reflect Dominica's multicultural soul.

The island's emphasis on sustainability resonated deeply with me. Many accommodations are eco-lodges, like the Secret Bay resort with its clifftop villas built from sustainable materials, or the more budget-friendly Citrus Creek Plantation, nestled among organic gardens. These places prioritize low-impact tourism, encouraging visitors to engage with nature responsibly. I joined a community-led tree-planting initiative, which not only helped restore hurricane-damaged areas but also connected me with residents passionate about protecting their home. This sense of purpose transformed my trip from a mere vacation into something meaningful.

Dominica also surprised me with its festivals and vibrant nightlife. I timed my visit around Creole Day, part of the island's Independence celebrations, where streets came alive with music, dance, and traditional attire. The rhythms of bouyon and calypso filled the air, and I found myself dancing alongside locals in a joyous parade. It was a far cry from the sterile entertainment I'd associated with Caribbean resorts; this was raw, communal energy that fostered genuine connections.

By the end of my stay, I realized why Dominica had converted me. It's not about lounging on beaches (though there are some hidden black-sand gems like Mero Beach); it's about embracing the wild, the authentic, and the unpolished beauty of the Caribbean. The island challenged my body with its trails, nourished my soul with its culture, and opened my eyes to a region I'd wrongly stereotyped. If you're like I was—skeptical of the Caribbean's allure—Dominica might just be the place to change your perspective. It's a reminder that true travel magic lies in the unexpected, in places that demand you engage fully rather than just unwind. Now, I can't wait to return, and I've even started planning trips to other lesser-known Caribbean spots, inspired by this gem that redefined the region for me.

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I Never Liked the Caribbeana"but This Island Made Me Fall in Love With It

Why Dominica Changed My Mind About the Caribbean